Hello Maria T
Here come the rescue ., we have been experimenting with different ingredients for the Plasterite in going further into simplifying the mixture, so here we are with a new formula that according to some very sensitive people is outstanding: mix your plaster with some beach sand, the proportions are in volume 4 liters of plaster for 350ml of sand. If your sand comes from a beautiful Cape Town beach nothing else to do If you have to buy your sand which would probably be washed then you will have to add some unrefined sea salt to dissolve in the water you will use for the plaster. You might want to have 4lb of salt for 25 lb of plaster . You may add any crystals you want according to what you want to achieve with your piece for this particular event. Any shape will do (does not have to be a pyramid, actually better if not – old energy -). We are using all sorts of conical molds/glasses, vases, cooking molds, cake molds. We have posted all sorts of different shape and form for you to look at viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=30
And this is what we have found to work the best for releasing the devices from the molds: wax your molds with just any car wax, then spray with silicon or any professional release agent (made with parafin), we have used a product call Pam (canola oil…not good) and does not result in the smooth surface, do not be fooled by this so ordinary plaster stuff it really works regardless what any pajama people are saying
j
So the pictured new mix is sans any crushed metal or crushed crystal. New mix is plaster, charged water (3 minutes in blender on high, w/rare earth mags opposite each other, source bottled spring water), store bought sand (from Michaels Craft), some sea salt, and clear quartz crystal in center of each piece, surrounded by four smaller quartz crystals in each direction, all facing same direction, on same center level, and pinches of several powdered resins from myrrh, frankincense, amber, and dragons blood. All to boost protection and well being. Tap water, here in Maryland, turns yellowish color after 3 minutes in blender, and changed the color of my 1st and 2nd batches. Last batch was bottled spring water spun up, no color change but “thickness” did alter it seemed. Mixing all together was a delightful mess, still have stains on carpet to clean up. Now that I’ve started to using a very fine grade to sand down the uneven bottoms, I’ve discovered even more ways to get plaster on everything I own! LOL OH Well. Big Note: This is far more than Josh is putting in his right now, please reference his mix for precise and proper go of it. Mine have a very marbled look to them, son said it looked like concrete with marble thrown in to…
Plan to have all 3 kids this weekend helping with 5th batch, tomorrow night will do 4th. Next time I see one of those plastic cones in a parking lot….. I really want something huge and heavy… Can’t help it, will wrap 144 feet of electrical extension cord and plug in my salt lamp, then just smile and smile…. If my youngest daughter gets as excited as my other two children, I’ll get her to make her own too, to take with her back home. Note to self, make some for “that” home too! Not sure if the sudden change in weather to clear blue skies and almost cool temps is due to anything I made, but it sure does feel better now that the last batch is “live”…. :0
josh wrote:
Hello Maria T
Here come the rescue ., we have been experimenting with different ingredients for the Plasterite in going further into simplifying the mixture, so here we are with a new formula that according to some very sensitive people is outstanding: mix your plaster with some beach sand, the proportions are in volume 4 liters of plaster for 350ml of sand. If your sand comes from a beautiful Cape Town beach nothing else to do If you have to buy your sand which would probably be washed then you will have to add some unrefined sea salt to dissolve in the water you will use for the plaster. You might want to have 4lb of salt for 25 lb of plaster . You may add any crystals you want according to what you want to achieve with your piece for this particular event. Any shape will do (does not have to be a pyramid, actually better if not – old energy -). We are using all sorts of conical molds/glasses, vases, cooking molds, cake molds. We have posted all sorts of different shape and form for you to look at viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=30
And this is what we have found to work the best for releasing the devices from the molds: wax your molds with just any car wax, then spray with silicon or any professional release agent (made with parafin), we have used a product call Pam (canola oil…not good) and does not result in the smooth surface, do not be fooled by this so ordinary plaster stuff it really works regardless what any pajama people are saying
j
Josh, you are a star! I’ll give it a go. For ease of calculation I’ll mix 1 part sand (co-incidentally I have some Cape Town beach sand!) to 11 parts of plaster. I’ve just got back from collecting some copper dust from a woman who bronzes items, so I’ll add a pinch of that together with the 5 quartz crystals and some chips of other crystals.
Hi Josh thanks for starting this great topic. I’m getting ready to go shopping for the ingredients of my first attempt at making orgonite, (never made the resin, so this is a real first) and going down your list – apart from the large crystal, how much crushed crystal does one need, or can it be eliminated?
And is copper powder required – how much in proportion to the mold? Don’t know any machine shops near me where I can get these, can you buy them at a hardware shop or craft shop – (if I don’t want to go online, getting impatient). If I can’t get powder, can I use something else?
And what are oxides, sorry, these are strictly orgonite for dummies questions.
josh wrote:
Hello Maria T
Here come the rescue ., we have been experimenting with different ingredients for the Plasterite in going further into simplifying the mixture, so here we are with a new formula that according to some very sensitive people is outstanding: mix your plaster with some beach sand, the proportions are in volume 4 liters of plaster for 350ml of sand. If your sand comes from a beautiful Cape Town beach nothing else to do If you have to buy your sand which would probably be washed then you will have to add some unrefined sea salt to dissolve in the water you will use for the plaster. You might want to have 4lb of salt for 25 lb of plaster . You may add any crystals you want according to what you want to achieve with your piece for this particular event. Any shape will do (does not have to be a pyramid, actually better if not – old energy -). We are using all sorts of conical molds/glasses, vases, cooking molds, cake molds. We have posted all sorts of different shape and form for you to look at viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=30
And this is what we have found to work the best for releasing the devices from the molds: wax your molds with just any car wax, then spray with silicon or any professional release agent (made with parafin), we have used a product call Pam (canola oil…not good) and does not result in the smooth surface, do not be fooled by this so ordinary plaster stuff it really works regardless what any pajama people are saying
j
Josh, you are a star! I’ll give it a go. For ease of calculation I’ll mix 1 part sand (co-incidentally I have some Cape Town beach sand!) to 11 parts of plaster. I’ve just got back from collecting some copper dust from a woman who bronzes items, so I’ll add a pinch of that together with the 5 quartz crystals and some chips of other crystals.
Hi Josh thanks for starting this great topic. I’m getting ready to go shopping for the ingredients of my first attempt at making orgonite, (never made the resin, so this is a real first) and going down your list – apart from the large crystal, how much crushed crystal does one need, or can it be eliminated?
And is copper powder required – how much in proportion to the mold? Don’t know any machine shops near me where I can get these, can you buy them at a hardware shop or craft shop – (if I don’t want to go online, getting impatient). If I can’t get powder, can I use something else?
And what are oxides, sorry, these are strictly orgonite for dummies questions.
At US Composites, you can use the EB polyester resin which is cheaper. It is a brownish green resin. By the time you pay shipping on 1 gallon, you could have paid the same amount at Autozone or Walmart for their Bondo brand resin. They work just the same but the EB resin is a bit higher quality meaning a touch easier to work with. With poly resin, you use a liquid MEKP catalyst that is measured in drops.
Josh has also had good luck with epoxy which is what he was describing. The catalyst for epoxy is a thick liquid and mixes in like a 1:2 ratio or something like that. He’s the expert there.
This may sound nutty but I was thinking of making muffin size regular orgonite with the epoxy and another set using separate muffin molds for the plaster version since the hardening time is different. And hopefully be able to compare the vibes of epoxy to plaster.
I think this is a stellar idea. The plaster concept is relatively new and it is exciting to hear people’s response in a side by side comparison.
BTW, I have a friend who was given a TB cast-off by a local maker which gave him one of the worst nightmares of his life and has been very suspicious of orgonite ever since. The thing looked harmless enough but I guess it was a very bad mix. Yikes.
It is possible that it wasn’t bad orgonite but that he had not acclimated to the piece yet.
The price that you have looked at is correct except that when it quoted the price for one gallon; it is one gallon of each, hardener and epoxy, so you would get 2 gallons for that price, the same for the 10 gal deal, you would get 20 gallons for that price ($ 498), this is the kind of epoxy where the amount of hardener and epoxy are the same.
Mixing the epoxy, measure equal amount of hardener and epoxy (one to one ratio)
Mix thoroughly
Ad your oxide and crushed crystals
When it is thick pour it in the molds
One of the benefit that I find with this (one to one thick epoxy 150) is that it gives me a long time to work, because according to the temperature it will take 8 to 12 hours to harden, Some of the polyester resin will harden within a half hour
For the plaster you use only some crushed crystal, plaster and water, no metal ( or just a pinch of copper powder but not no necessary)and it will harden within a half hour
Hello Sacred
You can charge your devices as they are hardening to sit whatever intentions you like, or frequencies, or sounds, but as you work with the Orgonite you find a degree of consciousness in it that quite unusual: it will respond to your intents, for example if you find yourself in a situation where you need a lot of Orgonite and you do not have enough with you, may be just one piece, you can ask the Orgonite to link it self with of the other Orgonites creations in the world and you will have just that , you see they are all connected in a real way, as well you can ask your Orgonite to turn it self off and it will do that, so you have with the Orgonite a device that is very conscious on many levels
j
josh
Help, please. I’ve made 2 plasterite items – a pyramid and a larger piece in a glass vase about 19cm (7.5in) high. The good news… the pyramid demoulded quite easily. The bad news? I cannot get the plasterite out of the vase which has cracked despite being made of quite thick glass. Any suggestions?
05jul10vase.jpg
05jul10pyramid.jpg
I’d also appreciate some feedback on the energy put out by my creations – as yet I do not feel the energy.
MariaT wrote:
The bad news? I cannot get the plasterite out of the vase which has cracked despite being made of quite thick glass. Any suggestions?
Maria, I’m new to orgonite myself, but thought I’d share (if it hasn’t already been mentioned, and you may already know ) that as plaster hardens it gets very hot, so I’m not surprised the thick glass has broken. I used to make plaster molds for ceramics, so came across that then. Maybe if any thick glass molds were heated, they wouldn’t crack so easily? In making molds (for ceramics), I’d put the plaster on the outside of the item, not inside as in making plasterite orgonite, so I didn’t have the expansion issue that seems to be happening.
this information may be extremely useless … hope not, though …
I like the energy of the one that is out of the mold … it feels clear and clearing …